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Pilgrim Clothing
Myth is that the Pilgrims wore black clothes with white colors and buckles on their hats
and shoes
Reality:
Pilgrims from middling social class in England of artisans and yoemen farmers
their clothing represented this status which was the commonest in England
Styles
English style was originally French, Spanish, Dutch or German and was adopted
Fabric
wool, linen and leather most common
some silk
Leather used by countrymen because of its durability, pretty common
Color
colored using vegetable dyes
colors not as bright as our chemical colors today but were not drab and dour
colors not colorfast so they faded in the sun and ran in the rain
Clothing
Men
Shirt: made of linen, loose with long sleeves, ties and hooks and eyes at collar and wrist,
gathered into bands at cuffs and neck
Bands: at neck and cuffs
Waistcoat: undergarment worn over a shirt for warmth, knitted sweater type, quilted vests, may or may not have sleeves
Drawers: can be brays- short, close-fitting breeches of linen or stockings of linen, wool or leather worn over finer stockings for protection (these are probably the most common types in Plymouth)
Stockings: of wool or worsted cloth covering legs to mid-thigh, also had Irish Stockings of cloth with "stirrups" that fitted under foot
Garters: narrow bands tied or buckled below the knee to hold up stockings
Doublet: worn over a shirt, a close fitting, padded and lined garment with a high neck and sleeves
Jerkin: similar to a doublet but not padded to be worn over the doublet for warmth
Breeches: pants that reach to the knees, they can be very tight to loose and baggy (called slops)
Cassock: loose thigh length pull over garment like a sweatshirt to us
Horsemans Coat/ Gabardine: loose evercoat with wide sleeves one was given to Squanto and one to Massasoit
Cloak: knee-length with no collar, could be part of a suit
Gown: ankle-length fairly loose, fur-lined garments suitable for older men, scholars and men in authority
Hat/ Cap: most expensive were made of beaver felt, some straw hats, caps have no brims, knitted caps were called Monmouth caps, shaggy topped thrum caps for sailors, close fitting linen caps worn by scholars or as bed caps
Shoes/ Boots: leather with low or no heel, boots went to mid-thigh
Belts: narrow, used to hold swords or knifes, or purses
Purse: small leather or knitted wool bag used for carrying small items
Gloves: knitted or leather
Mittens: knitted or leather
Women
Smock/ Shift: female version of a shirt.
Bands: same as mens
Corset: funnel-shaped garment of leather or linen supported with whalebone
Underpetticoat: wool, like a skirt to make a woman look fashionably bulky, servants may have none, a fashionable woman may have 5-7 on at once
Bum Roll: sausage-shaped pad tied around the hips to create an upside down tulip shape
Skirt: may be ankle length or have a train depending on ones station as servant or matron
Waistcoat: like mens, or like a jacket
Gown: open gown loose fitting worn over a waistcoat and skirt and a fitted gown, closer fitting
Doublet: Like a mans
Coif: close-fitting linen cap that covers the top, back and sides of head
Coats/ Cloaks: same as mens
Shoes: same as mens, no boots for women
Stockings: same as mens
Apron: of wool or linenInfants
Swaddling: squares of cloth and bands wrapped around the baby, probably used at a minimum for 4 weeks up to a year
Tailclouts: square diapers of wool or linen
Baby
Shirt: miniature version of adult one
Gown: long shirt
Biggin: cap made of wool or linen tied under the chin for warmth
Toddler
Gown/ Short Coat: ankle-length loose garment worn when child begins to crawl, often with leading strings attached to back to help child maintain balance
Pudding: a sausage shaped protective headgear roll with chin straps worn for protection from falls
Muckinder: childs handkerchief
Shoes/ Stockings: same as adults
Apron: usually with a bib, for both boys and girls
Cloak: like adults
Girls wore back-closing gowns until about 10 years old then wore mini-adult womens clothes
Boys wore fashions similar to girls until age 6 or 7 when they went through the celebration of breeching, at this time they give up the gown for mini-adult male clothes.
Plymouth clothes: provided by the company in the first few years, individuals could buy their own as well